3 Weeks
3 Weeks since the last update.
We have came on leaps and bounds, we would have been even further ahead had the weather been a bit kinder, a few delays and stoppages due to the rain.
Finished off all the weatherboarding of the frame, this was good as it gives stability and avoids the frame warping out of shape. Fitted all the nail battens, these are to hold the outer panels.
OUR LITTLE HUT
SOUTH GABLE, TERRACE FRAME AND LIVING ROOM WINDOW OPENINGS
SAME GABLE, DIFFERENT ANGLE
EAST SIDE, BACK WALL. BEDROOM AND TOILET WINDOW OPENINGS
NORTH GABLE, UTILITY ROOM, BATHROOM AND SAUNA WINDOW OPENINGS
KITCHEN WINDOW AND DOOR OPENING, GLASS TERRACE EXTENSION
RODENT WIRE, this is to stop rodents getting into the building, better to take this precaution now as our cat is 14 so may not be able to cope, (don't tell her I said that)
the wire is put under the batten then folded upwards over the ventilation gap.
MEANWHILE.
Tarja was working her socks off,we took delivery of 3km of outer panel, it has to be painted 3 times, first time is a clear base coat to protect and preserve the timber. next is the colour coat, final coat is after it is nailed into place, guess who is not getting a summer holiday?
3KM of outer panel.
the panel in profile, it is different to the normal panel available, this was made to our own specifications 85mm x 28mm, should last a long long time.
For ease of working, Tarja is painting this in our garage, enough room to work and not affected by the weather, one batch base painted the other getting a dash of colour.
A sample of how it will look on the wall.
The paint is water based, (eco friendly) semi transparent so the grain of the wood is visible.
That took care of one week.
We took delivery of some materials also, first to arrive were the window and door to the kitchen, it is rather massive, window is 1.6m wide and 2,1m high, triple glazed, it is a fixed window that we are unable to open.
triple glazed kitchen window.
The rest of the windows, these we are able to open so fitting them is a bit easier, we can break them down into individual components, again triple glazed. in this case it is a double glaze in one frame and a single in the outer.
The roof tiles arrived as well, 200 or so m2, all we have to do is get them up and lay them out.
What, no volunteers?
It was time to make a start on getting the house rain proof if nothing else, again we had to assemble the scaffolding, (I will be happy to get shot of that stuff) weighs a ton and takes forever to move about.
First stage, vapour seal, this is stapled onto the roof truss, on top of this is placed a ventilation batten, this is to allow any condensation to run off without being trapped.
Same thing better view
Putting out the tile battens, there is a great deal of leeway with the tiles, maximum gap between battens can be between 33 and 37cm, so a bit of simple math and divide the length of the truss to give you an exact measurement of where the battens should go, in our case for the front it was 342mm
Ari slumming on the roof
still slumming.
First few rows done
After a few false starts and stops for rain, we finally finished this job.
It's always a relief to get the house weatherproofed, in this case it allows us to get to the next stage, which is getting the concrete base floor done.
First part of the process, is to put in the drain and water pipes, this calls for accurate measuring, we want the drains to be in the proper place and all the water pipes must go into the dividing walls, measuring tapes and a can of spray paint are the tools for this job, spray paint to mark on the sand base, where the floor drains are coming and also for the sewage pipes etc.
Drainpipes
More of the same, the tow upright pipes are, one is the ventilation pipe for the sewage, avoids a vacuum in the pipe, the second one is for the radon gas,this is vented through the roof.
cold water pipes, this is a plastic pipe, 15mm in diameter, it is inserted into a 32mm protection pipe, the cold water pipes are laid under the styrofoam insulation.
All the cold pipes laid, this is where they get connected to the bronze fittings which in turn are connected to the water tank.
cold pipes with their protective sheath.
cold pipes, coming up through the floor, note the red paint, this is where the dividing wall will be.
After all the drains and cold water pipes, it was now the turn of the insulation, in this case, 20cm of styrofoam, a few years back, 10cm was ipso facto, now we are up to 20, where it goes from here is any ones guess.
First layer of styrofoam.
After the first 2 rows, it was the turn of the Radon gas containment seal, this is to stop the gas permeating the house,it gets led away to the outside through the breezeblocks. it also gets removed with the aid of the radon pipe we laid earlier. this gets vented through the roof
All the insulation in place, now to mark out the dividing walls for the electrician, he needs to know where the electric floor heating cables can and cannot go, also he has to fit thermostats and these go into the internal walls.
walls marked out, we use spray paint, just run a couple of planks on the floor so we get a straight line and spray in the gap. Don't fret, we don't have a diagonal wall, that's a water pipe.
Red pipes, these are the same dimension as the blue, only difference is colour, these are for the hot water, the reason they come on top is, if you use the hot water, then a few minutes later use it again, it is still warm, if it was laid before the styrofaom it would cool down really fast, resulting in loss of energy and a much higher water bill as you run the tap longer to get hot water, all water is metered in Finland.
Safety precaution, I measure where pipes are crossing the dividing walls, I don't wish to drive a screw or fixing nail through the pipe.
Hot and cold pipes, these will come up through the floor, connected to a bronze flute and fitted to the water tank/heater, in our case it is a 300 litre job. enough for our needs.
electric heating cable laid out. We went for electric heating as in our case it is the most economical, we will also have a Varava Takka, it's a fireplace which works on the storage radiator principle, it will be made from Finnish soapstone.
More heating cables
Just about the whole house has underfloor heating, only the bedrooms are having radiators as the temperature is easier to control. the black square is where the fireplace will be situated, no cables or pipes under that.
Job jobbed, drains, check, cold pipes, check, hot pipes, check, electric heating cables, check. guess that just remains for me to call the floor layers and get this job out of the way.
Well that was pretty swift, 8.5m3 of floor grade concrete and there we have it, just leave the house open for a few days until the initial moisture is squeezed out of the concrete.
Single slab floor.
Just have to let it dry enough, when we want to put tiles down,we will have to get a measurement taken, that way the primers and glues will work at an optimum, too soon and they come loose after awhile, beforewe prime the floor we will was it with hydrocloric acid, this takes some of the lime of thesurface, leaving us a nice firm base to prime.
Would you believe it,we had enough left over to do the ramp into the garage, another piece taken care off.
So, for the maentime that's it, next on the agenda, trim the battens on the roof, mark it out for tile laying, call in the crane guy get them up there and lay them out, (What, still no volunters?)
If the weather is unsuitable, then, fit a few doors and windows and make a start on the wall insulation.
We have came on leaps and bounds, we would have been even further ahead had the weather been a bit kinder, a few delays and stoppages due to the rain.
Finished off all the weatherboarding of the frame, this was good as it gives stability and avoids the frame warping out of shape. Fitted all the nail battens, these are to hold the outer panels.
OUR LITTLE HUT
SOUTH GABLE, TERRACE FRAME AND LIVING ROOM WINDOW OPENINGS
SAME GABLE, DIFFERENT ANGLE
EAST SIDE, BACK WALL. BEDROOM AND TOILET WINDOW OPENINGS
NORTH GABLE, UTILITY ROOM, BATHROOM AND SAUNA WINDOW OPENINGS
KITCHEN WINDOW AND DOOR OPENING, GLASS TERRACE EXTENSION
RODENT WIRE, this is to stop rodents getting into the building, better to take this precaution now as our cat is 14 so may not be able to cope, (don't tell her I said that)
the wire is put under the batten then folded upwards over the ventilation gap.
MEANWHILE.
Tarja was working her socks off,we took delivery of 3km of outer panel, it has to be painted 3 times, first time is a clear base coat to protect and preserve the timber. next is the colour coat, final coat is after it is nailed into place, guess who is not getting a summer holiday?
3KM of outer panel.
the panel in profile, it is different to the normal panel available, this was made to our own specifications 85mm x 28mm, should last a long long time.
For ease of working, Tarja is painting this in our garage, enough room to work and not affected by the weather, one batch base painted the other getting a dash of colour.
A sample of how it will look on the wall.
The paint is water based, (eco friendly) semi transparent so the grain of the wood is visible.
That took care of one week.
We took delivery of some materials also, first to arrive were the window and door to the kitchen, it is rather massive, window is 1.6m wide and 2,1m high, triple glazed, it is a fixed window that we are unable to open.
triple glazed kitchen window.
The rest of the windows, these we are able to open so fitting them is a bit easier, we can break them down into individual components, again triple glazed. in this case it is a double glaze in one frame and a single in the outer.
The roof tiles arrived as well, 200 or so m2, all we have to do is get them up and lay them out.
What, no volunteers?
It was time to make a start on getting the house rain proof if nothing else, again we had to assemble the scaffolding, (I will be happy to get shot of that stuff) weighs a ton and takes forever to move about.
First stage, vapour seal, this is stapled onto the roof truss, on top of this is placed a ventilation batten, this is to allow any condensation to run off without being trapped.
Same thing better view
Putting out the tile battens, there is a great deal of leeway with the tiles, maximum gap between battens can be between 33 and 37cm, so a bit of simple math and divide the length of the truss to give you an exact measurement of where the battens should go, in our case for the front it was 342mm
Ari slumming on the roof
still slumming.
First few rows done
After a few false starts and stops for rain, we finally finished this job.
It's always a relief to get the house weatherproofed, in this case it allows us to get to the next stage, which is getting the concrete base floor done.
First part of the process, is to put in the drain and water pipes, this calls for accurate measuring, we want the drains to be in the proper place and all the water pipes must go into the dividing walls, measuring tapes and a can of spray paint are the tools for this job, spray paint to mark on the sand base, where the floor drains are coming and also for the sewage pipes etc.
Drainpipes
More of the same, the tow upright pipes are, one is the ventilation pipe for the sewage, avoids a vacuum in the pipe, the second one is for the radon gas,this is vented through the roof.
cold water pipes, this is a plastic pipe, 15mm in diameter, it is inserted into a 32mm protection pipe, the cold water pipes are laid under the styrofoam insulation.
All the cold pipes laid, this is where they get connected to the bronze fittings which in turn are connected to the water tank.
cold pipes with their protective sheath.
cold pipes, coming up through the floor, note the red paint, this is where the dividing wall will be.
After all the drains and cold water pipes, it was now the turn of the insulation, in this case, 20cm of styrofoam, a few years back, 10cm was ipso facto, now we are up to 20, where it goes from here is any ones guess.
First layer of styrofoam.
After the first 2 rows, it was the turn of the Radon gas containment seal, this is to stop the gas permeating the house,it gets led away to the outside through the breezeblocks. it also gets removed with the aid of the radon pipe we laid earlier. this gets vented through the roof
All the insulation in place, now to mark out the dividing walls for the electrician, he needs to know where the electric floor heating cables can and cannot go, also he has to fit thermostats and these go into the internal walls.
walls marked out, we use spray paint, just run a couple of planks on the floor so we get a straight line and spray in the gap. Don't fret, we don't have a diagonal wall, that's a water pipe.
Red pipes, these are the same dimension as the blue, only difference is colour, these are for the hot water, the reason they come on top is, if you use the hot water, then a few minutes later use it again, it is still warm, if it was laid before the styrofaom it would cool down really fast, resulting in loss of energy and a much higher water bill as you run the tap longer to get hot water, all water is metered in Finland.
Safety precaution, I measure where pipes are crossing the dividing walls, I don't wish to drive a screw or fixing nail through the pipe.
Hot and cold pipes, these will come up through the floor, connected to a bronze flute and fitted to the water tank/heater, in our case it is a 300 litre job. enough for our needs.
electric heating cable laid out. We went for electric heating as in our case it is the most economical, we will also have a Varava Takka, it's a fireplace which works on the storage radiator principle, it will be made from Finnish soapstone.
More heating cables
Just about the whole house has underfloor heating, only the bedrooms are having radiators as the temperature is easier to control. the black square is where the fireplace will be situated, no cables or pipes under that.
Job jobbed, drains, check, cold pipes, check, hot pipes, check, electric heating cables, check. guess that just remains for me to call the floor layers and get this job out of the way.
Well that was pretty swift, 8.5m3 of floor grade concrete and there we have it, just leave the house open for a few days until the initial moisture is squeezed out of the concrete.
Single slab floor.
Just have to let it dry enough, when we want to put tiles down,we will have to get a measurement taken, that way the primers and glues will work at an optimum, too soon and they come loose after awhile, beforewe prime the floor we will was it with hydrocloric acid, this takes some of the lime of thesurface, leaving us a nice firm base to prime.
Would you believe it,we had enough left over to do the ramp into the garage, another piece taken care off.
So, for the maentime that's it, next on the agenda, trim the battens on the roof, mark it out for tile laying, call in the crane guy get them up there and lay them out, (What, still no volunters?)
If the weather is unsuitable, then, fit a few doors and windows and make a start on the wall insulation.
posted by Jim Henderson at
05:09
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